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That strange mix of Spanish overlord-ship and Dutch commerce became a volatile one at the end of the 16th century. With the religious ferment of Reformation bubbling over, and influential Flemish locals converting to the new faith, a conflict between Catholic Spain and Dutch Protestants blew up — mainly in the face of Antwerp and its inhabitants. The city was ransacked in during the so-called 'Spanish Fury', when Spanish troops went looting, and slaughtered 9, of Antwerp's citizens.
They went to the free Dutch provinces, taking much of their wealth and trade with them. Antwerp went downhill. The slide-down was prolonged because the wily new Dutch nation to the north forbade ships from plying the Scheldt's waters, in the subsequent peace treaty. They wanted to protect and promote their new port at Rotterdam. It wasn't until the time of Napoleon , who saw Antwerp as "a pistol pointed at the heart of England", that the port, and the city, began to regain some of its former glory.
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Since then, Antwerp has successfully shrugged off the ravages of two World Wars, and re-invented itself as a city of culture. But commerce remains the lifeblood of Antwerp. That and, of course, its many fine, outstanding examples of Belgian beer-craft.
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The sea-lanes may have been the best way of arriving at Antwerp in the past, but these days the traveller is better served by motorway, rail and airport. There are flights there from the City Airport in London, and Manchester too. Going rail-only is an excellent choice for those seeking to avoid the hassles of flying entirely. It involves a straight forward journey via Eurostar, from London St. Pancras, with only one simple change-over at Brussels.
Car travel is simple enough too, with most car-drivers choosing to take the E40 from the channel ports onwards to Ghent , before hooking a left onto the E17 direct into Antwerp. You may want to consider parking the car up, once you've arrived in the City of Diamonds. That's because, when it comes to cross-city travel, the visitor to Antwerp is pretty well catered for.
The city has a dense network of tram and bus lines connecting the main town to the suburbs, as well as shorter journeys within the centre itself. There are 12 lines in all on the tram network, which includes 4 lines running underground section, called the Premetro. This also includes a tunnel under the Scheldt, to get you over onto the Left Bank of Antwerp.
But the best way to enjoy the city on the move is probably by walking or cycling — like most Belgian cities , Antwerp rewards those who amble around using just their own two-feet. You might expect a smattering of five-star luxury hotels in Antwerp, the City of Diamonds — in fact the city boasts none there's currently only one five-star hotel in the whole of Flanders.
And beyond these top-flight lodgings, the city within the ring-road is literally heaving with great hotels in a fetching array of settings. The costs may be higher here, but having a room within walking distance of the iconic sights — as well as some pretty iconic bars — is not to be sniffed at.
Although close to the coast well the muddy Scheldt estuary people don't generally come to Antwerp for the simple pleasures of sun, sea and sand. There's a camp-site on the tip of the Left Bank, which offers fantastic views back across the Scheldt to the Antwerp skyline. And north and west, close to the border with Holland, there's a smattering of sites in the open fields and woods surrounding the city. Antwerp may not be as laden with local micro-breweries and authentic Trappist tasting-rooms as some of the more provincial parts of Flanders although Westmalle is in the province of Antwerp.
And the Sinjoren do love their beer. Maybe it's something to do with the region being such a melting pot of diverse beer-tastes, lying at the cross-roads of Holland, France, and Germany. Maybe it's something to do with this port city's hard-working dockers having such a need for thirst-quenching beverages. More likely it's because Antwerpers just know when they've hit onto a good thing.
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The iconic beer of Antwerp is of course De Koninck, or more particularly the bulbous bolleke glasses that it's served in. This light-red malty ale is pretty much the house beer of Antwerp, and the distinctive chalice-shaped glass is so ubiquitous that all self-respecting Sinjoren will be heard to 'holler for a bolleke', when its time for their round. The De Koninck brewery since part of the Duvel-Moortgat Group , a modest building half-way along Mechelsesteenweg, in the centre of town, is conveniently open for tours too.
But Brouwerij De Koninck isn't quite the only game in town — Antwerp has a few other brewery aces up its sleeve, so to speak. One discovery in the best tradition of micro-breweries is 't Waagstuk, a pub tucked into the leafy square of the Stadswaag. A recent mark-up for Antwerp's flourishing beer culture is the resurrection of the Seefbier, an old dockland favourite that disappeared in the 's. It was popular in the Seefhoek part of town which apparently is named after the beer, not the other way around! For the moment Seefbier is being brewed in Oudenaarde, by the Roman Brewery.
But it is planned that an Antwerp-based brewery will be producing it soon. They are strung out along every straat, peppering every street corner and square with their open invitation to mark respect for Belgium's commitment to the art of beer.
There are, of course, plenty of top-name pubs clustered around the tourist traps. These have up to a dozen beers on tap, and many hundreds of bottled beers to hand, but they can be expensive, and are certainly crowded to the point where seating is an after-thought. Quieter, less showy alternatives aren't hard to find, however. Be sure to have a look at our Beer Tourism Destinations in and around Antwerp. It may have little more of a lusty and down-to-earth attitude to cuisine than Bruges or Brussels. Add to that the cosmopolitan outlook of a seasoned port-city, and the marine influences that closeness to the sea brings to the plate, and you have something pretty special.
Traditional Flemish fare is very much on the menu at restaurants across town — from the warming 'Vlaamse stoverij' beef stew , to the rich 'waterzooi' a creamy fish soup with vegetables , to the light sweetness of 'tomate crevettes' tomatoes filled to bursting with shrimps. But the Sinjoren have their own specialities too — 'paling in 't groen' being a case in point. This dish is made from lean eels, once common to the Scheldt estuary but which now must be imported all bathed in a zesty green parsley sauce.
It is most commonly served in the restaurants in the Suikerrui area, close to the river. If you do go for this tasty dish, do make sure you check the eel has been caught in season — only careful sustainable fishing will stop the river eel disappearing from the Flemish plates. If you want to experience the cutting edge of Antwerp's gastronomy department, then head to 'Het Zuid', in the south of Antwerp. Here there has been a blossoming in restaurants offering more radical slants on Belgian and international cuisine, and staffed by some fine new chefs.
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You'll also find plenty of top-rated and top-priced restaurants around the cathedral and the Grote Markt area. But some of the best meals to be had — and often at a much lower price — are away from these tourist-slanted venues, in the many unassuming restaurants and bistros in the wider city. See our Sweet Tooth and Where to Eat travel guide categories for more information. With commerce in its blood since first founding, Antwerp has always been a city of markets.
The historical centre of Antwerp's markets, the main square of the Grote Markt, is only occasionally used for its original purpose of ware-selling and the Christmas stalls are indeed a sight to behold. But there are true markets-a-plenty to be had in other parts. In the Oudevaartplaats and Theaterplein areas, for example, you'll find the weekend 'Vogelenmarkt' Birdmarket , selling everything from flowers to fabrics to exotic birds.
On Sundays, the area also hosts an 'exotics' market, with specialities from Turkey, Morocco and southern Europe on offer. There are also monthly book markets at the 'Boekenplein', and an art market at the Lambermontmartre, in the southern "Zuid" district. When it comes to store shopping, Antwerp has had something of retail renaissance over the last two decades. Boutique and designer brand stores have since sprouted up along the along the Hopland and Schuttershofstraat, close to the 'Meir', Antwerp's busiest shopping street.
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Inevitably, parts these parts of town are now laden with the identikit stores of international brand-names, but plenty of stores shine through with Antwerp's original retail sparkle. When visiting Antwerp do take the time to check out the magnificently ornate 'Stadsfeestzaal', which when renovated, was converted into a shopping mall after being ravaged by fire some years ago. The Kloosterstraat is known as a haven for hipsters and hippies, packed with shops selling retro-styled clothing and furniture, antiques, paintings and a general assortment of the odd.
Right next door is the Lange Koepoortstraat, where antique and rare books can be perused, and where there are some great record and music stores. Truth be told, there's very little in terms of merchandising wares that isn't for sale somewhere in the city of Antwerp.
See our Shopping travelguide category for more information. Inevitably for a city so ancient, and so relatively small, Antwerp packs a pretty high density of sights to be seen, per square-inch. Both are well worth the visit — the Boerentoren is the first example of a skyscraper in Europe built in Our Lady's Cathedral completed in is known for its wonderful stone lace-work, ethereal grace and the four paintings it has by Rubens.
The Baroque artistry of Rubens looms large over Antwerp, as his native city, and one which fully benefited from his artistic vision. As well as being able to see his paintings at the cathedral, The St. Rubens designed it, and it is here he was entombed on his death. Or if that isn't enough Rubens for you, you can also visit his house, an Italian-style palazzo where he had his studio, and which is open to the public.
The city is also packed with museums dedicated to a wider artistic heritage, ancient and modern, but one of the most interesting is 'Het Steen'. This castle, dating back to the 13th Century,is now the city's Museum of Archaeology and Maritime History. Its grey turrets date back mainly to the 16th century, when Charles V of Hapsburg was looking to strengthen defences of the Scheldt. At its entrance you'll find something of a controversial character — a bas-relief of Semini, a god of manly fertility and virility.
Or he would be, if his phallus hadn't been removed by overwrought clergy The latest addition to the already comprehensive list of musea in the city is the stunning MAS or 'Museum aan de stroom'. The MAS opened in and tells stories about the city's historical international links, the river Scheldt, the Port of Antwerp and the world in all its diversity.
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Another first for Antwerp is its zoo — built in , and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world. It has undergone successive waves of modernisation, and is today heavily involved in conservation and research. Aiming to be a model zoo with the best facilities, Antwerp Zoo is very keen to demonstrate what it is doing for the animals its houses, rather than merely exhibiting them to the public. Antwerp Aquatopia offers a watery perspective on the world, through the lenses of its fish tanks. Lodged on the Queen Astrid Square opposite of the Zoo , Antwerp Aquatopia, is a great place to get away from the bustle of Antwerp, and let the tropical fish do the entertaining.
When it comes to high level cultural entertainment, the performing arts are also well represented in Antwerp.
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You will find a variety of performances, shows and events in the calendar, from modern or classical ballet, to opera, poetry and classical recitals. Consult our Sightseeing and Culture travel guide categories for more information. It's not all high culture and history in Antwerp. This is a port city that is used to catering to the desire of pent-up sailors, and hard-working dockers, to cut loose and party.
Jazz in particular has driven its rhythms deep into the soul of the city.